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How To Build Your Own Generator

When I was in first grade, I won my school’s science fair. It wasn’t too hard. All I did was build a Styrofoam model of the solar system, complete with the asteroid belt and all nine planets (yes, there were nine planets back then). I made a moon for the earth, I didn’t bother for all of the other planets. Saturn alone has 62 moons, so it would have taken me an extra week to build my model, and I think I forgot to mention the part that this project was based off of a last minute idea, conceived of at most two days before submissions were due. In subsequent years, I frequently at least placed in the school’s science fair, thanks to projects that included the building of a small-scale volcano and a dry ice experiment. One project that never would have occurred to me then, however, would have been the construction of a portable electric generator. Even up until recently that project would have seemed ludicrous to me. But it turns out that an individual can actually build his or her own generator in a quick and easy fashion. Now understand, using these steps, you won’t be able to build a generator that will be able to power your entire house in an emergency; the end product will be a low wattage generator. But this is a fun and educational project nonetheless.

The materials you will need include 500 feet of 22-28 gauge enameled copper wire, a four inch bar magnet, a steel rod that is twelve inches in length and has a quarter inch diameter, a cardboard tube with a four inch diameter, 24 inches of 1×4 lumber and two quarter inch flat washers.

The first step is to build a frame in the shape of a “U” to support the rotor. The rotor is the permanent bar magnet mounted on a steel shaft. To do this, cut the lumber into two six inch pieces and one 12 inch piece (inches in length), then nail the two pieces to the twelve inch piece at a perpendicular angle. This is when you need to drill two quarter inch holes in the two uprights of this frame. Make sure they align so that the steel rod will go through both without binding. Don’t put away the drill just yet; you’re going to need it again to drill another quarter inch hole through the center of the bar magnet, preferably on the widest side.

After the drilling, slide the metal shaft through one side of the frame and slide the magnet onto the shaft. This is when you should cut a four inch section of the cardboard tube. Then wind your copper wire around the tube and leave roughly 18 inches of wire loose on each end to connect to the device you wish to supply power to. For purposes of this hypothetical, let’s use a light bulb. The more winds you can get during this process, the more power you will produce. Now you should slide the tube over the shaft and magnet, and then slide that shaft through the other support frame. After this is done, glue the magnet to the shaft at the center of the two supports. Use the strongest glue you have at your disposal for this step. Now, support your cardboard cylinder with the wire windings at the center of the shaft with the bar magnet centered on the wire windings. You can build a wire frame from a coat hanger to do this. Now, you need to test it. Slowly turn the shaft with your fingers in order to see if the ends of the magnet hit the inside of the tube. If it spins freely, glue a washer on each end of the shaft, outside of the wood supports. Finally, attach the two wires that are loose at the end of the windings to the light bulb and spin the shaft as fast as possible. You now should have a low wattage electric generator.

That wasn’t too hard, was it? Like my solar system model, this can be done at the last minute as well. It will certainly impress any judges at any science fair, or any of your friends if you’re too old for science fairs. For more information about portable generators and used cat generators, check these out.

Avoiding Large Hidden Costs Building A Home

Building a home can be one of the most exciting, yet costly projects that you ever do. You can finally build your dream home, but if you are not careful, you might get slammed with various large hidden costs which will create even more devastating effects. The last thing you want is to start building this dream home only to be stuck with a half built home because you did not have the hidden costs in mind. When you plan out your home you should always be rounding up and expect to pay at least a third of the total cost more.

Building your own home can be a great financial investment but you have to consider all of the factors before you make this commitment. Some of the extra costs that you can encounter include legal fees, materials and even extra labour. Below you will find some of the common hidden charges that are associated with building a home:

• Many people borrow money in order to build their dream home, but these funds have costly finance fees that are attached to them. Some of the more common fees which you will be paying are lender’s survey and valuation fees which can be up to $1000. You will also have to pay for inspections in order for mortgage payments to be released which can be almost $100 per visit.

• Don’t forget about your broker. The person who arranges your mortgage will also benefit from you as you must pay for their services.

• Arrangement fees are also common if you are using a fixed rate. Arrangement fees are also very common when you want the stage payments in advance. The only upside to the arrangement fee which can be around $1200 or less, is the fact that you will not have to pay for the interim inspection fees.

• Another large fee that you should not forget about is your surveyor’s and engineer’s fee. Before work can be done, the plot of land must be inspected by a site surveyor which will cost between $600 and $1000. Archaeological surveys will also cost you around $5000. If there is a problem with the land, expect delays and costs to come with these delays.

• Legal fees can be quite costly, at least $2000 for buying a plot and selling your home. When you purchase the property you will have to pay stamp duty and then register it which will have additional fees.

Building your home can be a dream come true but if you do not take into consideration the additional costs, it could soon turn into a nightmare. Other cost considerations are architecture fees, scaffolding and plant hiring fees, delivery charges and costs associated with connecting sewage lines.

Floor Lamp Lighting Tips

Floor lamps can act in a variety of different ways within a room, as they are very functional lighting applications. Recently floor lamps are being lumped into the “task lighting” category because these lamps are often used for a particular function, which inevitably leads to a reduction in the overall lighting demands within a household. With that being said, a floor lamp is an excellent way to reduce energy costs within a house. By turning off overhead lights and turning on the floor lamp, energy usage is decreased and the house becomes just a little more “green”.

Majority of floor lamps are the traditional 3-way socket and need a 3-way light bulb as well. There are also models that will use incandescent bulbs, fluorescent bulbs or halogen bulbs as well depending on what part of the house the light will be used in. With the idea of task lighting and “going green” in mind, a low-voltage light bulb is often used. With the use of these low-voltage light bulbs there can be up to a 40 percent saving in light energy used within the house.

The standard floor lamp is composed of two parts, excluding the light bulb of choice. The lamp base and the lampshade are the two main parts of a floor lamp and these are held together by a harp and finial. The style of the base will often come in a number of different styles depending on where in the house the lamp is to be incorporated. In order to choose the right floor lamp for a particular room it is important to first analyze the carpet color, wall color or color of other furniture already found in the room. The floor lamp base can sometimes be adjustable in height, which may also affect where it can be placed within the room as well.

The lampshade is the other functional piece of the floor lamp that needs to be taken into consideration when incorporating a floor lamp into the home décor. Like the base, it comes in a variety of different styles, shapes, colors, sizes and is composed of a number of different materials. Again, like the base, the type of shade should depend on the décor of the room in which the lamp will be placed. Unlike the base, there are some functional considerations as well. This has to do mostly with the amount of light the shade is going to let through. Is the lampshade going to shade eyes completely from the light bulb, is it going to let through and illuminate the room upward, or is the floor lamp going to be used as a reading lamp and illuminate the room downward for optimal reading? For things such as task lighting where the floor lamp will be used for only reading, it may be advised to have the shade point the light downward instead of lighting the entire room by pointing upward. With this task in mind, the translucency of the shade is not as important as if the light was going to be used to light the entire room.

Choosing the right floor lamp is dependent on a number of factors. Most importantly, it needs to be determined the main function of the lamp before the lamp is picked out. Task lighting is something that has recently come about and floor lamps are some of the best tools that can be used to reduce energy costs in this regard. A floor lamp can act in a variety of ways and is always a positive addition to a room, whether it is for reading or just to add a new flare to an old room.